Day 8, September 28, 2016 – In Conwy

We are off to day for the Conwy Castle, built in the 13th Century by King Edward I as part of his fortifications of the west coast, and to keep those nasty Welsh under control.  Amazing place, most of the stone work intact, and you can easily see notches for floor trusses throughout.  If you have read David Macaulay’s Castle, you would swear this is his model.  The book is about how to build a castle. Ed and I did all the up and down towers.  Doubt that we will ever again see such a grand piece of history.

This from Wikipedia…”Constructed as part of a wider project to create the walled town of Conwy, the combined defences cost around £15,000, a huge sum for the period. Over the next few centuries, the castle played an important part in several wars. It withstood the siege of Madog ap Llywelyn in the winter of 1294–95, acted as a temporary haven for Richard II in 1399 and was held for several months by forces loyal to Owain Glyndŵr in 1401.

Following the outbreak of the English Civil War in 1642, the castle was held by forces loyal to Charles I, holding out until 1646 when it surrendered to the Parliamentary armies. In the aftermath the castle was partially slighted by Parliament to prevent it being used in any further revolt, and was finally completely ruined in 1665 when its remaining iron and lead was stripped and sold off. Conwy Castle became an attractive destination for painters in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Visitor numbers grew and initial restoration work was carried out in the second half of the 19th century. In the 21st century the ruined castle is managed by Cadw as a tourist attraction.”

From the castle, we went up into the High Street to Plas Mawr, intact home built in the 1580’s by Robert Gwinn, a crony of royalty who amassed wealth in the form of farms, the wool trade, and payments from his royal lords, and he married well – twice.  It’s a wonderful insight into how the upper middle class lived circa Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.  Not bad.

Lunched at a pub, Norah and Ed having fish and chips and I a vegetable tagine and my first ½ pint of bitter.  It was bitter, but good – not hoppy.  After Plas Mawr, we were exhausted, had a nap, then dinner and to bed.  

Castle interior

Ed on a tower wall overlooking the harbor

Model of the castle to give you an idea of the layout and scope

Pub lunch

Exterior Plas Mawr - looking head-on at the gate house.  The house runs up the street.  Note the Flemish influence on the architecture.  Gwinn was impressed by them in his travels.

Great hall in Plas Mawr

End of a long day.

Day 7, September 27, 2016 – Drive to Conwy on the Northern Coast of Wales

A tough drive for Ed, mostly on two lane highways, some of which narrow down to just enough space for two cars to pass, with stone walls on either side.  Lots of small towns and villages, and the countryside beautiful all the way.  The route took us through the Brecon Beacons National Park and then Snowdonia, with the highest peak (1,085 m) in the UK—Mt. Snowdon. We didn’t see any of the mountains due to light rain and fog.

Tried to lunch at a pub in one of the tiny towns along the route only to learn that Tuesday is the “pub closed” day in this part of Wales.  We were advised to go into Newtown, a market town that would have open pubs and it was market day!  A delightful lady led us from the car park to the High Street where we selected The Black Boy as our lunch destination.  Without her crafty short cuts, we could still be looking for a pub.  The Welsh are friendly and helpful – without exception.  

The pub takes its name from chimney sweeps.  Because it was market day, the joint was jumping.  I ordered a pint of something that looked good on another table – a tall, golden glass of Strongbow.  My first taste said, “This is not beer, but something so lovely and delightful on the palate that it could only be Welsh cider”.  A delicious discovery.  Norah was the adventurous eater, ordering cawl, a Welsh lamb stew – tasty.  As we returned to the car, we purchased a quart of strawberries and a box of large apricots that I mistook for nectarines. Both were wonderful.

Driving into Conwy was amazing.  A huge castle dominates the view and mostly intact walls circle the old town.  We set our navigation system for the post code of the house we rented, but this takes us only within a block or so.  There are no street numbers in these old towns, only street names that are well hidden and the name of the house, Isallt. 

The streets are so narrow, thankfully one-way, with parking allowed on one side, so you have only one lane for driving. We did stop for directions but our “guide” was a non-native English speaker, which only confused us – as we probably confused him.  Fortunately, we found a parking space on the High Street and by carefully checking the tiny map given us by the Isallt owners, learned we were only a block or so away from the house.  We walked there, were able to enter – now how to drive there?  Due to all the one-ways and one lanes, it looked about mile to travel, added tothat we would only be able to unload the car in front of the house.  Then we had to park it somewhere.

We were told by the owners that parking was in the city lot several blocks away, but Ed scored a space on the street adjoining Isallt’s that he claimed by backing into it (the wrong way, of course) off the High Street. The Volvo is cursed with a terrible turning radius and that huge pillar directly in the driver’s line of sight to the right.  After much back and forth accompanied by shouting from Ann (outside and trying to direct) to Ed (inside and with the windows closed for the first pass so we could not communicate at all), Ed brought the beast to heel. 

We hauled our gear (kit here) up a steep (but thankfully short) hill to our street then a short way down to Isallt. It’s a comfy old place, built in 1847. Narrow, steep stairs, tiny rooms, but home for the next two nights. There are two bedrooms up, with a shared, nicely remodeled bath. Down are living room, dining room, remodeled kitchen, a miniscule ½ bath (had to leave the door open to use it) and a serviceable little gravel-paved walled patio (garden) . . . nice for a sit in the fresh air. 

We struggled a bit with an oven that did not work and no wi-fi.  But the owners fixed these the next day.  Beds comfy and shortly after Tesco purchased dinners and a huge fruit salad, we retire.

St.  Edward, our driver

Yes, the sides of the bridge come right down into the road lanes...

Driving through a typical mining town.

Market day in Newtown

The Black Boy Pub

Strongbow Welsh cider

Entering Conwy - town walls to the far left, castle next to it and a large construction project under wraps - or maybe Christo is visiting.

Isallt -note the slope of the street in front.

Day 6, September 26, 2016 – Recuperating from Cardiff

Rain started yesterday evening and continued most of today.  Since our plan was to relax, do laundry and make a run to Tesco, the weather was cooperating. Feeling brave, Norah and I set off, giving Ed a break from driving.  The Tesco is five minutes and two roundabouts away.

Half an hour later we returned to the cottage to ask Ed to please drive us to Tesco and pick us up.  We could not find it!  Defeated by the roundabouts.  We didn’t have the post code to put into the navigation system to get us to Tesco, but we did have “home” programmed, so that is where we went.  

Norah and I did our little shopping, enjoyed a quiet cup of tea in their café and returned home for more relaxing.  Moral of the story, let Ed drive.  

Day 5, September 25, 2016 – First trip to Cardiff

To spare Ed a possible heart attack, we travel to and from Cardiff (about ten miles) via taxi.  Our first stop is Cardiff Castle.  Per usual, I did no real research prior to this trip, so everything’s a bit of a surprise.  Expected the castle to be Norman-ish and medieval.  Turns out it is built on Roman ruins, and there was a Norman castle and a medieval one, but what we visit is a completely new structure built circa 1875 by the Third Marquess of Bute, the real money family in Cardiff – fortune based on coal, shipping, railroads to haul coal, etc.  It’s the vision of Bute and his architect, William Burgess, of what a medieval castle would be like – but their result is over the top Disneyland.  Other than the fact that there is just too much of everything, the details are magnificent, the artistry stunning.  And the family only lived there six weeks a year.  When the tax reforms came after WWII and the UK nationalized the coal mines, the Butes bailed and gave the castle and the grounds to the City of Cardiff.  Probably a good deal all around.

There is a good piece of Norman and medieval architecture on the grounds -- the Keep.  Built on a man-made hill using dirt from digging the huge moat, it is a stone fortress with living quarters, dating to the twelfth century.  This replaced a wooden fortress.  Ah, real history.  Ed and I made it up the 100 tiny, steep stairs to overlook Cardiff.  Expected to be able to see the river, or the sea, but only a pedestrian view of a not very attractive city.  Nice parks to the north.  

After the castle, we did the obligatory open top bus tour.  This is not a lovely city.  The bay and docklands, which I expected to be on open water, are newer buildings, urban-redevelopment, some on inlets, most on landfill. There were real docks in the distance, but not on the tour route.

Next, the Portuguese Bakery, just across from the Castle.  Beautiful pastries which we purchased for several night’s desserts.  

Next, the highlight of the day, “Polyphony down the Pub”.  We wanted to hear choral music while in Cardiff.  The area is known for it.  When I Googled “choral music Cardiff”, PDTP came up – and it is amateur singers of polyphonic music gathering in a pub for a three hour sing.  Amazing, fun and such wonderful music.  I recorded some of the pieces.  Since most had not done these works before, the beauty they produced was even more admirable.  Of course, two pints of Heinekens for me only made it lovelier.  There will be a PDTH while we are in London.  Don’t know yet whether it will fit our schedule.  

Inside the castle grounds

The Keep

Interior of the Keep

Up the stairs in the Keep

Portuguese Bakery goodies

Looklng down Duke Street outside of Rummer Pub

Rummer Pub, meeting place of Polyphony down the Pub

Singers at PDTP

Day 4, September 24, 2016 – A day of rest

Norah deep in her purse

Ann deep in computer and iPhone

Day 3, September 23, 2016 – Picton Castle with the birds

Today, we head west, almost to the Coast – Pembrokeshire – for a day with the birds.  It’s an hour and half drive, and we allow two and a half hours and still arrive five minutes late.  Rush hour traffic out of Cardiff and into Swansea, and it’s raining.  Difficult enough that Ed has to drive on the left, but the traffic is heavy.  We only miss one roundabout exit, but it was tense the whole way.  

The castle originated in the 13th century.  Probably interesting, but we did not have time to visit. We flew seven different kinds of raptors on the grounds.  The gardens are magnificent, insightfully and lovingly planted by someone around 1850.  It was a joy to be in the midst of such amazing plant life.

The birds we flew: two Harris’s hawks (Zephyr and Malakai), a steppe eagle (name unknown), a turkey vulture (Gomez), a buzzard hawk (Busby), a tawny owl (Troy), a kestrel (Sapphire), a Brahminy kite (name unknown).  It is a wonder to be so close to these birds and the have them land on your arm.  The photos tell it all.

An unexpected pleasure was the Maria’s Café at the Castle.  I expected a taco joint and instead had lovely food.  I enjoyed a trio of salads, fig and beet being my favorite, Norah had salmon and leek quiche, Ed, blue cheese and leek quiche and a portabella mushroom stuffed with pine nuts sausage and cheese.  All yummm, followed by Welsh cakes, sort of a sweet biscuit with currents and sultanas.  

We completed our flights around five pm; our behinds were dragging.  It was a long day in the outdoors, featuring strong winds in the afternoon.  Because of the wind, we did fly three of the birds in the forest, the rest in the open fields.  Drive home was uneventful – only missed one roundabout.  We were safe and sound at Southwinds at seven pm.  

Steppe eagle

Harris's hawk

Turkey vulture

Kestral

Tawny owl

Brahminy kite

Day 2, September 22, 2016 – St. Lythans

We wake up at eleven am when my phone alarm goes off -- 14 hours of sleep.  It’s a beautiful day, sunny and crisp.  Only two outings – Tesco to purchase the things we forgot, and Ed and I take a lovely walk.  Ed is mastering the roundabouts – especially nerve-wracking is how the lanes disappear as you go around.  “Heads up!”  He acknowledges that my coaching is needed, even if he does not always take direction well.

Cooked the lamb kidneys for dinner.  They were wonderful.  Just like Grandma Boland used to make:  dredged in flour, salt, pepper, a bit of oregano (whatever they have in the cupboards here), fried lightly in a bit of oil and then two cups of broth stirred in to make a lovely thick gravy.  Served with rice and for me, a bit of tomato.  Norah had a sandwich…

Well marked public footpaths everywhere.

Crossing the stile

St. Bleiddian's Church

Down the footpath

Large bracket fungus

Our first bird - right in the front yard.  A wood pigeon - the head is a lovely teal green.

UK Trip - Day 1 September 21, 2016

From Chicago to London to St. Lythans
We were ready to leave around noon, with a six pm flight.  So killed time around the apartment, worrying about what we were forgetting.  Lyft-ed in a nice SUV out to O’Hare and whisked through security.  Better to be there early than worry.  

We elected cheap seats because they were a bargain – well, we thought they were.  Found we had to pay $50 per person to even get a seat assignment, if we wanted to know where we were seating before boarding.  Oh yeah!  The new British Airways.  Fortunately, when we checked in, Ed was able to obtain a bulkhead seat.  There is no way he could have even fit in the seats that Norah (Ed’s sister and our companion on the trip) and I occupied.  You got into the seat and prayed you never had to move again.  Fortunately, the lady in the window seat next to me was a petite Philippina on her way to Barcelona for a conference.  And she never moved, the entire flight.  Bless her!  I took all sorts of work and knitting and books to occupy time.  Other than grabbing a NYT on the way onto the plane, never used any of them.  The entertainment system on BA is extraordinary.  You could not want for movies, TV, music, BBC plays, games.  This is what keeps people from screaming on flights.  Even grabbed a few hours of sleep.

Arrived right on time and made our way top Enterprise Car Rental for our big Volvo D50 SUV. Lots of luggage room, but the passenger area is rather snug – the front seats in particular sort of “hug” you.  But when we crash into a hedge row, we will be fine.  Drive to Cardiff easy, but Ed is tired and driving on the left takes major concentration. He keeps drifting into the left lane.  The Volvo does have an excellent navigation system and an annoying Swedish invention which enables to car to turn off every time you stop…really?  Fortunately we can override this.  

The cottage is lovely – a guest house attached to a beautiful country manor.  We are in beautiful countryside.  Our first venture is to the local Tesco.  Oh, what a store!  We go crazy in the yogurt aisle which is about 100’ long, the cheese aisle of similar size and a fab butcher with cooked meats, fresh and lots of fish as well.  Joy, I find ½ kilo of lamb kidneys, a Boland family favorite and virtually unavailable in the U.S. unless you know an halal butcher.  I find some nice tuna steaks that we sear for dinner.  We manage to stay awake until nine pm, then snuggle in the cool evening air under a huge feather duvet.  

Back lawn

Back of the cottage

Hello Tesco!  Norah and I prepare to begin our shopping tour of the UK.